The Complete Guide to Cleaning Your Hot Tub
Key Takeaways
- A full drain, clean, and refill should be done every 3–4 months for most home hot tubs used 2–4 times per week.
- Follow the core deep-clean steps in order: flush the hot tub’s plumbing lines, power off, drain, clean the shell and jets, clean or replace filters, clean the cover and cabinet, then refill and balance chemicals.
- Only use spa-safe cleaners and appropriate chemicals like chlorine or bromine and pH adjusters—never standard household bleach or abrasive cleaners on the interior shell.
- A simple regular cleaning schedule (quick checks after each use, weekly chemical tests, monthly filter cleaning, quarterly drain and refill) dramatically cuts problems like cloudy water, foam, or foul odors.
- Proper cleaning also protects pumps, heaters, and pipes from scale and biofilm build up, extending the life of your tub and keeping bathers safe.
Why Regular Hot Tub Cleaning Matters
Warm water between 37–40°C (98–104°F) creates the ideal environment for bacteria to thrive. Without regular maintenance, what should be your personal sanctuary can quickly become a breeding ground for microorganisms that cause skin irritation, unpleasant odors, and even respiratory concerns.
Consider typical residential use patterns: a 4–6 person spa enjoyed several evenings per week introduces body oils, cosmetics, sweat, and detergent residues from swimwear into the water. Each soak adds to the organic load, and without consistent maintenance, this accumulation strains both your water quality and your equipment.
The benefits of keeping your hot tub clean extend beyond aesthetics:
- Safer soaking that reduces the risk of hot tub rash (folliculitis) and Legionella exposure
- Better-smelling spa water without that chemical or musty scent
- Less foam and film on the surface and around the waterline
- Longer equipment life for pumps, heaters, and the hot tub shell itself—proper routines can extend your spa’s life by 10–15 years
This guide applies broadly to portable acrylic spas manufactured after about 2000, though you should always cross-check your specific owner’s manual for model-specific guidance.
How Often Should You Clean Your Hot Tub?
Cleaning frequency depends on several factors: how many people use your tub and how often, whether it’s installed indoors or outdoors, and whether you keep the spa cover securely closed between uses. Higher bather loads and outdoor installations exposed to wind-blown debris typically require more frequent attention.
Here are the timeframes that keep most hot tubs in tip top condition:
After each use of the hot tub, quick post-use tasks should be performed to maintain cleanliness and proper function. Water testing and chemical adjustments need to be done at least weekly to ensure balanced water chemistry. The filter should be rinsed every one to two weeks to remove debris, while a deep filter clean is recommended monthly for more thorough maintenance. Every three to four months, the hot tub should be fully drained, cleaned, and refilled to prevent buildup and maintain water quality. Additionally, a pipe flush should be conducted at least once per year to clear out any residue and keep the plumbing in good condition.
Example scenario: A family in a temperate climate using a 300-gallon spa three times per week should expect to drain and refill your hot tub about 3–4 times per year. In the colder months when use might decrease slightly, you can sometimes extend this interval—but never skip it entirely.
Safety and Preparation Before You Start
Before diving into any deep clean, take a few moments to review your manufacturer’s manual. Look for model-specific instructions about drain valve locations, removable panels, or any “winter mode” settings that might apply.
Electrical safety is paramount:
- Always turn off power at the isolator switch or circuit breaker before draining or removing access panels
- Never run pumps with the water level below the skimmer line—this can cause overheating and pump damage
- Verify all control lights are off before beginning work
Gather your tools and supplies before you start:
- Garden hose or submersible pump for draining
- Specialized hot tub cleaner or diluted white vinegar (1:4 ratio with warm water)
- Non-abrasive cloths, sponges, and a soft-bristle brush
- Dedicated filter cleaner solution
- Test strips or liquid test kit
- Sanitizer (chlorine or bromine)
- pH and alkalinity adjusters
- Rubber gloves to protect your hands from chemicals
- Shop vac or towels for removing residual water
Check your local regulations about where you can drain spa water. Many municipalities allow draining onto lawns away from storm drains, while others require directing water into a household sewer connection. When in doubt, contact your local water authority.
Step-by-Step: How to Deep Clean a Hot Tub
This comprehensive process covers a full quarterly clean for a typical acrylic hot tub between 250–500 gallons. Each step builds on the previous one, creating a thorough cleaning routine that addresses everything from invisible biofilm in your pipes to visible grime on your hot tub cabinet.
While specific product names are mentioned as examples, any equivalent spa-safe product will work. The key is choosing cleaners designed specifically for hot tub use rather than household alternatives that can damage surfaces or disrupt water chemistry.
Step 1: Flush the Plumbing Lines
Biofilm—a slimy bacterial layer that builds up inside pipes and jet housings—is invisible but potentially harbors up to 70% of the bacteria in your system. A plumbing flush should happen at least once per year, and ideally before each seasonal deep clean.
Begin by removing the spa cover completely. Ensure all jets and air valves are fully open so the flush product can reach every part of the hot tub’s plumbing. Add a dedicated hot tub pipe cleaner according to the bottle’s dosage for your spa volume—typically measured in ounces per hundred gallons.
Run the pumps on high for 15–30 minutes, or as directed on the product label, to circulate the cleaner through all plumbing lines. During this process, you’ll likely see the hot tub water become quite dirty or develop significant foam. This is completely normal—it means the product is working to effectively remove buildup from places you can’t see.
After circulation, let the spa sit for an additional 30–60 minutes. This dwell time allows the flush product to continue breaking down deposits before you drain everything away.
Step 2: Power Off and Drain the Water
With the flush complete, switch off the spa at the main isolator or breaker before proceeding. Double-check that all control panel lights are off.
Locate the drain valve on your spa—on most modern portable hot tubs, it’s positioned on the base of the hot tub cabinet or behind a small access panel. Many drain valves accept a standard garden hose attachment for directing water drains away from the tub.
Route the hose downhill and away from foundations, patios, or plants sensitive to sanitizer residues and elevated pH levels. Never direct water toward storm drains or natural waterways.
For larger spas or when working in cold weather where slow drainage could lead to freezing, a submersible pump placed in the footwell significantly speeds up the process. A pump rated for 20–30 gallons per minute can empty a 400-gallon spa in under 20 minutes.
Once the main volume has drained, use a shop vac, sponge, or absorbent towels to remove the last few centimeters of water from seats and the footwell. This prevents dirty puddles from drying and leaving residue that you’ll just have to clean again.
Step 3: Clean the Shell and Jets
Begin cleaning your hot tub shell while it’s still damp—before residue dries and becomes more difficult to remove. Dried oils and mineral deposits are significantly harder to address than fresh buildup.
Spray or wipe the acrylic surface with a specialized hot tub cleaner or a homemade solution of one part white vinegar to four parts warm water. Vinegar is approximately 90% effective at dissolving calcium carbonate scale through a process called chelation, making it an excellent natural option for many cleaning tasks.
Work methodically from the waterline band down over the seats, footwells, and around each jet face. A soft cloth or sponge removes most oil rings, scale deposits, and dirt films without scratching the acrylic surface (which has a Mohs hardness of only about 2.5—quite soft compared to bathroom tile).
For the jets themselves, use a soft brush to clean around the faces and nozzles. Many jet inserts can be twisted and gently pulled out for more thorough cleaning—check your manual to confirm your model allows this. Pay attention to diverter valves and air valves as well, as debris can accumulate in these moving parts.
Never use regular household bleach directly on the hot tub shell. It can damage acrylic finishes and leave residues that cause excessive foaming or skin irritation once you refill.
Step 4: Clean Pillows, Headrests, and Accessories
Remove any detachable headrests or pillows according to your manual—most lift straight up or release with small clips. This allows you to clean the shell surface behind them where moisture and mildew often hide.
Clean pillows with warm water and a mild, non-abrasive soap, then rinse thoroughly to remove all suds. Residual soap creates foam when you refill and begin soaking again.
While you have pillows in hand, inspect them for cracks, peeling vinyl, or dark mold spots. Pillows more than a few years old that show deterioration should be replaced—they’re relatively inexpensive and make a noticeable difference in comfort.
Take this opportunity to clean removable accessories like cup holders, floating trays, or spa steps using similar mild cleaners. A damp cloth with gentle soap handles most dirt and debris.
Allow pillows to dry completely before reinstalling them. Putting damp pillows back against the shell creates the perfect environment for mildew growth between cleanings.
Step 5: Clean or Replace the Filters
Your hot tub filter is the first line of defense against particles, trapping debris down to 10–20 microns. Remove cartridge filters while the tub is empty or draining, following your manual’s instructions for proper removal and reinstallation.
A thorough filter cleaning process:
- Rinse the cartridge with a hose, working from top to bottom to push debris out from between the pleats rather than deeper into them
- Soak the clean filter in a dedicated filter cleaner solution for the time specified on the label—often several hours or overnight for a deep clean
- Rinse thoroughly after soaking to remove all cleaner residue (which would otherwise foam when you resume using the spa)
- Allow the filter to drip-dry completely before reinstalling
With regular cleaning, most filters last 12–24 months. However, if the pleats remain visibly stained, feel crushed, or have become rigid and won’t flex after a deep clean, it’s time for replacement. Quality replacement filters typically cost $30–100 depending on your model.
Consider keeping a spare filter set on hand. Rotating between two sets—one in use while the other is being cleaned and dried—simplifies the maintenance process and ensures you’re never without proper filtration.
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Step 6: Clean the Cover and Exterior Cabinet
Lay your hot tub cover flat or leave it in place and gently hose off loose dirt, leaves, and any bird droppings from the top surface. A spa cover is your primary defense against debris and heat loss, so keeping it clean extends its life significantly.
Wipe the vinyl or weatherproof surface with a soft cloth and a cleaner formulated for spa covers, or use a mild soap solution. Rinse thoroughly afterward. A few times per year—typically during each seasonal clean—apply a UV protectant or vinyl conditioner to help prevent cracking and sun damage.
For the hot tub cabinet, wipe down exterior panels with a damp cloth and neutral detergent or a manufacturer-approved cleaner. Avoid directing strong jets of water into vents or control panels, as moisture intrusion can cause electrical issues.
Inspect cover seams, handles, and locking straps for wear. A waterlogged or heavily damaged cover loses its insulating properties and should be replaced to maintain heat efficiency and keep debris out of your clean hot tub.
Step 7: Refill and Balance the Water
Refilling should be done by placing the hose into the filter compartment or designated fill point. This approach fills the plumbing from within and reduces the likelihood of trapping air in the lines—a common cause of air locks that lead to foam or pump overheating.
Fill until the water level sits a few centimeters above the highest jets, then turn the power back on at the breaker. Watch for normal pump operation and check for any error codes on the control panel.
Once the fresh water has warmed slightly, test and balance chemistry in this order:
- Total alkalinity (target: 80–120 ppm) – this buffers pH fluctuations
- pH (target: 7.2–7.8, ideally around 7.4–7.6) – optimizes sanitizer efficacy
- Sanitizer – adding chlorine or bromine according to product instructions to achieve proper sanitizer levels
Leave the cover off for 20–30 minutes after adding initial chemicals so any off-gassing can safely dissipate. This is especially important after shock treatment.
The spa may take several hours to reach your preferred water temperature. Plan your deep clean for a morning or afternoon so the tub is ready for soaking later that evening or the following day.
Routine Hot Tub Cleaning Schedule
Most hot tub owners find success by splitting tasks into manageable routines: quick checks after each use, weekly water testing, monthly filter attention, and quarterly deep cleans. This approach keeps hot tub maintenance from feeling overwhelming while ensuring optimal performance year-round.
Consider printing a simple checklist with dates and keeping it near your spa—on a garage wall or inside the equipment cabinet—for easy reference.
After Each Use (or Daily Checks)
After an evening soak, leave the cover open for 10–15 minutes on mild days. This allows excess heat and moisture to escape, reducing condensation buildup and preventing musty odors from developing inside the cover.
Give the water a quick visual inspection. Skim out any debris like leaves, insects, or hair with a small net if present. These organic materials quickly consume sanitizer and contribute to water quality issues if left floating.
If multiple people have used the tub or it’s been an especially active session, add a small top-up dose of sanitizer according to your product’s label and run the jets for several minutes to distribute it evenly.
Once the tub cools slightly, ensure the cover is fully closed and latched to retain heat and keep out rain, dust, and other contaminants.
Weekly Tasks
Your weekly clean should include comprehensive water testing using test strips or a liquid test kit. Check and adjust.
Key water parameters should be kept within specific target ranges to maintain clean and comfortable water. Chlorine sanitizer levels should stay between 1 to 3 ppm, while bromine sanitizer levels should be maintained at 3 to 5 ppm. The pH should be balanced within a range of 7.4 to 7.6, and total alkalinity should fall between 100 to 150 ppm.
Wipe the waterline and seat edges with a soft cloth or sponge dampened with diluted white vinegar. This prevents the formation of an oily scum band that’s much harder to remove if left to build up over weeks.
Run all jets on high for 10–15 minutes with air controls open to ensure good circulation and mix any chemical adjustments evenly throughout the water. If your spa has a programmable circulation pump, confirm that at least two filtration cycles per day are scheduled.
Monthly Tasks
Once a month, your hot tub filter cartridges deserve more thorough attention than a simple rinse. If they’ve only been rinsed weekly, give them a proper soak in filter cleaner to dissolve oils and particles trapped deep in the pleats.
This is also a good time to inspect the inside of the spa cabinet (if accessible via removable panels) for signs of leaks, damp insulation, or unusual noises when the pumps run. Catching small issues early prevents expensive repairs later.
Check the cover underside and zipper seams for early signs of mold or mildew, wiping with a mild cleaner if needed. The underside of covers stays warm and moist, creating conditions where problems can develop unnoticed.
Consider doing a more detailed water test monthly—either using a more accurate drop-count kit or having water tested at a local spa store. This confirms hardness levels, total dissolved solids, and stabilizer concentrations that basic test strips don’t always catch.
Quarterly and Annual Tasks
Every 3–4 months, most spas should go through the full drain, deep clean, and refill process described in the step-by-step section above. Industry experts recommend draining regardless of how clear the water appears, as invisible dissolved solids accumulate to problematic levels (often 2000+ ppm) and stress heaters and other equipment.
Schedule at least one major clean in early spring and another in early autumn to align with seasonal temperature shifts and heavy use periods. These transitions are natural times to reset your water chemistry completely.
At least once per year, use a pipe flush product to address biofilm in the plumbing lines, check all GFCI/RCD safety devices, and have any questionable electrical or mechanical issues inspected by a qualified technician. About 60% of service calls stem from poor maintenance, so this annual checkup is genuinely worthwhile.
Replace consumables as needed: filters showing wear despite cleaning, deteriorated cover straps, and headrests that have seen better days. These relatively small investments keep your tub looking and functioning like new.
Common Hot Tub Cleaning Mistakes to Avoid
A few widespread mistakes can lead to expensive repairs or damage to your spa shell, pumps, and heater. Being aware of these pitfalls helps you avoid them.
Common errors to watch for:
- Using household bleach or abrasive bathroom cleaners on acrylic—these damage the finish and leave problematic residues
- Draining without cutting the power first, risking pump damage or electrical hazards
- Forgetting to reopen air valves and diverter valves before refilling, which can trap air in the system
- Overtightening plastic drain caps until they crack
- Neglecting filters for months at a time, leading to cloudy water, “flow” error codes, and premature pump failure—filters clogged with debris force pumps to work harder, increasing amp draw from efficient levels (7–10 amps) up to 10–15 amps
- Mixing chemicals directly together or adding them all at once—add products one at a time with circulation between each addition
- Only reacting when water looks visibly bad rather than maintaining consistent testing and chemical levels—a chemical imbalance often exists long before you can see or smell it
Frequently Asked Questions About Cleaning a Hot Tub
These practical questions come up frequently once people start handling their own hot tub maintenance. The answers address points that complement the detailed guidance above.
Can I use household bleach or vinegar to clean my hot tub?
Straight household bleach should not be used on the acrylic shell or added directly to the water. It’s far too concentrated, can damage finishes, and will significantly disrupt your carefully balanced water chemistry.
A heavily diluted bleach solution may occasionally be used on non-porous surfaces like some cover materials or steps if the manufacturer specifically allows it. However, it must be rinsed extremely thoroughly and never mixed with other cleaners.
White vinegar diluted with water (one part vinegar to four parts warm water) is generally safe for wiping the shell, waterline band, and jet faces. It’s effective at dissolving mineral scale through natural chelation. However, vinegar is not a substitute for proper hot tub sanitizers—it cleans surfaces but doesn’t sanitize the water.
The safest choice, especially while your spa remains under warranty, is a specialized hot tub cleaner formulated specifically for acrylic surfaces and spa use.
Where is it safe to drain my hot tub water?
Local regulations vary considerably. Some municipalities allow draining spa water onto lawns or gravel areas as long as sanitizer levels are low, while others require directing water into a household sewer clean-out.
Before a planned drain, let sanitizer levels drop to the lower end of the safe range, or stop adding sanitizer for a day or two. This makes the water less harsh on grass and landscaping when it drains.
Never drain into storm drains or natural waterways. Hot tub chemicals can harm aquatic ecosystems and may violate local ordinances, potentially resulting in fines.
Contact your city or water authority before your first big drain for clear guidance specific to your area.
How long does a full hot tub clean and refill usually take?
Plan for about 2–4 hours of active work to complete the flushing, draining, cleaning, and refilling process for a typical 300–400 gallon spa. This doesn’t include heating time.
Heating from tap temperature to your preferred soaking temperature (around 38–40°C / 100–104°F) can take several additional hours depending on ambient temperature, your water source temperature, and heater capacity. In the colder months, this often means a half day or overnight.
A weekend morning start allows the tub to be ready later that evening or certainly by the next day. With experience, many owners can complete the hands-on cleaning steps in closer to two hours.
How can I keep my hot tub from getting cloudy between deep cleans?
Cloudy water typically results from insufficient filtration, overloaded sanitizer struggling to keep up with organic matter, or fine particles too small for the filter to trap quickly.
Start by ensuring your filters are genuinely clean and that circulation cycles run long enough each day—most spas need at least 8–12 hours of total filtration time. Keep sanitizer within the recommended range at all times through weekly testing and adjustment.
A clarifier product can help by clumping tiny particles together so the filter can trap them more effectively. Use these sparingly and according to directions—they’re helpful tools but not substitutes for proper maintenance.
Simple habits make a significant difference: showering before soaking removes lotions and cosmetics, and washing swimwear without fabric softener prevents residues that contribute to foam and cloudiness.
Is it okay to leave my hot tub empty for a few weeks?
Most modern portable spas are designed to remain filled and heated. Leaving them empty for extended periods can dry out seals and gaskets, invite debris into the shell and plumbing, and create problems when you eventually refill.
If your spa must remain empty—during extended vacations or off-season storage—follow your manufacturer’s winterization instructions. This typically involves blowing out plumbing lines with compressed air and adding antifreeze specifically designed for pools and spas.
In climates where temperatures routinely drop below freezing, any water left in the plumbing without circulation can cause serious freeze damage that’s expensive to repair.
When practical, keeping the spa filled, covered, and at a lower standby temperature with balanced water chemistry is usually safer and simpler than leaving it dry.
A clean hot tub isn’t just about water clarity—it’s about knowing your personal retreat is always ready when you need it most. With these routines woven into your seasonal rhythm, every evening soak becomes exactly what it should be: pure, peaceful restoration.
Start with your next quarterly deep clean, establish your regular cleaning schedule, and enjoy the peace of mind that comes from a sanctuary perfectly maintained.
